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ISHKAR does what humans have done for millennia; “trading objects, telling stories and travelling beyond our own frontiers”. In their case, it takes the form of a brand that connects buyers to rugs and other homeware and lifestyle objects, made in isolated areas often affected by conflict, such as Afghanistan. It’s no coincidence that rugs are one their areas of focus: Afghan handmade rugs are famous for their beauty, making them a powerful vehicle to pave roads to different stories.
To learn more about Afghan rugs and ISHKAR’s unique business model and range, we chatted to ISHKAR’s co-founder, Edmund Le Brun. You can find their range of rugs and carpets on Portaire’s free, curated directory.
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Founding ISHKAR, in conversation with Edmund Le Brun
PORTAIRE: Hi Edmund, thank you for chatting to us. How was ISHKAR founded? And what prompted this unique business focus?
Back in 2016 we were living in Afghanistan. We fell in love with the country; its warm culture, rich heritage, stunning craftsmanship, and natural beauty. But, we felt frustrated that the world only saw Afghanistan through the headlines for which it is known.
We launched ISHKAR to use luxury craftsmanship from Afghanistan to challenge those stereotypes.
What does the name ISHKAR stand for and how does it influence the business?
ISHKAR is the name of an unremarkable looking shrub found in the deserts of northern Afghanistan. For centuries artisans in Afghanistan - most notably glassblowers and carpet weavers - have combined the ash of the plant with dyes to produce rich and vibrant colours. For us, Ishkar is a metaphor for the alchemy of craft and of finding beauty in unexpected places.
What does ISHKAR provide to designers that other rug suppliers may not?
We feel privileged to be working with some of the most talented weavers in Afghanistan and indeed in the world. Afghanistan remains one of the only places in the world which still produces exceptional quality hand-knotted rugs.
A few points set us apart:
Material. Our rugs are all made from Ghazni wool, a variety unique to Afghanistan known for its luxuriant finish and unique way of absorbing colour, giving each carpet a characterful abrash finish.
Dyes. The majority of our colours are obtained from natural dyes made by crushing dried flowers and plants into fine powders, giving the rugs beautiful hues that develop a warm patina over time.
Versatility. Our rugs can be adapted to almost any design or artwork with sizes going up to 4.5m x 5.5m for kilims and 10m x 15m for carpets.
Supply chain. We are proud to have developed relationships with over 350 artisan partners. Such close supplier relationships guarantee the utmost quality and traceability through every step of the process. Our rugs are also ethically certified by Label Step, who ensure a comprehensive set of fair trade standards, including good working and living conditions, fair wages, the prohibition of child labour, and environmentally friendly production.
The legacy of exquisite quality
Carpet weaving is deeply ingrained in Afghan heritage. Decades of conflict, however, have isolated these skilled artisans from the wider world. ISHKAR bridges this gap, bringing authentic, hand-knotted Afghan rugs and kilims to the UK.
Unlike mass-produced alternatives, ISHKAR ensures every stage of production remains firmly within Afghanistan, from sourcing and dyeing the wool to the meticulous weaving and finishing. This empowers Afghan artisans by granting them a larger share of the value their craft creates.
This is important financially and culturally. With every ISHKAR carpet, you and your clients contribute to preserving Afghanistan's unique craft heritage and skillset. You also generate vital employment opportunities for Afghan artisans, offering them economic stability during challenging times.
Ethical luxury
ISHKAR prioritises ethical production and distribution in all its business areas, often collaborating with Label STEP and NGOs to uphold rigorous fair trade standards. These practices guarantee good working conditions, fair wages, environmentally friendly practices, and the complete absence of child labour.
A testament to time-honoured techniques
Every ISHKAR carpet or kilim is a luxury masterpiece of patience and skill. Two weavers dedicate four months to meticulously hand-crafting each piece . The entire process is manual, encompassing spinning and dyeing wool with natural dyes, weaving the intricate design, and finally washing and finishing the carpet to a flawless state.
ISHKAR carpets utilise Ghazni wool, a prized Afghan variety renowned for its luxurious texture and exceptional colour absorption. This unique characteristic creates "Abrash" – the beautiful, mottled effect arising from subtle variations in each wool strand's colour.
This rigorous, high effort and high quality process is what makes Afghan rugs and carpets potential heirloom pieces, to be passed on from generation to generation. Their simple, textured designs are timeless, offering clients a tactile art piece for decades to come.
A world of choice: Contemporary, Classic, Artistic…
While Afghan carpets are often associated with dark colours and geometrical motifs, ISHKAR offers a captivating collection of Afghan carpets that combine the classic with the contemporary.
Many of their designs veer into the abstract, taking notes from artists like Rothko. In fact, ISHKAR extends their artistic commitment with artists, with whom they often collaborate to infuse their rugs with fresh influences and imagination. Since its founding in 2016, ISHKAR has called on artists and designers from various backgrounds to highlight and interpret the rich cultural heritage of Afghanistan through annual collaborations. By enabling cross-cultural dialogues between designers and weavers, they aim to shed a new light on the masterful craftspeople of Afghanistan and engage new audiences around the future of the country.
Bespoke design: Weaving your dreams into reality
ISHKAR also offers designers and customers the possibility to create a beautiful Afghan rug from scratch. Their in-house design team will collaborate with you, transforming your initial concept – whether a sketch, painting, or detailed description – into a stunning, hand-crafted carpet design.
Once the design part of the process is finalised, ISHKAR will send you carpet colour swatches, allowing you to select the perfect hues to complement your clients’ home interior. Their bespoke carpet will then be meticulously handwoven by skilled artisans in northern Afghanistan, taking approximately 4-6 months to complete.
This process seamlessly merges your creativity with ancient Afghan skills and modern technology, bringing a unique piece to life.
Working with House of Grey, ISHKAR recently delivered a series of three bespoke kilims commissioned by the studio for one of their commercial projects in Shoreditch. The kilims were designed by House of Grey and handwoven in Afghanistan. The designs featured minimal and organic shapes, in soft, naturally dyed hues, which let the texture and quality of the Ghazni wool shine.
Credits:
Circular Salutogenic Interior Design - @houseofgreylondon
Photography - @michaelsinclair
Stylist - @louisagrey
Bespoke hand woven kilims from @ishkar.co
Natural, pure clay terracotta tiles from @artisansofdevizes
The ‘About a chair’ desk chairs by @haydesign
The Linear System table from @muutodesign
1990s table lamp for Casa Disagne from @the.peanut.vendor
Changing perceptions of Afghanistan
Close your eyes and think of Afghanistan for a moment. Think of the people, geography and soul of the land. Does war and hardship dominate your perception? Perhaps it would be naive to say you’re wrong. However, it would also be misguided to negate the rich tapestry of joy and craftsmanship of the country. And that’s exactly what ISHKAR is working against: narrow roads for complex issues.
By choosing ISHKAR, you acquire more than a carpet; you become a steward of Afghan artistry and heritage. You empower artisans, promote ethical production, and bring a piece of Afghan culture into your home. If you’d like to explore their range, check them out on Portaire’s curated directory.
